First off, thanx to djshalifoe for the thread layout!

H2O's nOtAbLe nEw aDdiTiOnS
(updated 12/16/06)
Cyber Dragon CRV x2 (Not for trade)
Ultimate Tyranno
Jumbo Drill
Horus Set 1st Ed SOI
Airknight Parsath Rare

H2O's NiNe sImPlE rUlEs

YOU MUST READ THESE BEFORE TRADING WITH ME!

1. PLEASE, for the love of GOD, do NOT post “CML for ___ !” I never roam around here posting "cml, cml, cml," like a friggin' retard, I have plenty of wants as it is, and if you don't have anything I want, then you and I simply won't be trading! 'Nuff said.
2. I will not counter-offer if your initial offer is low-ball, retarded, or otherwise just plain nonsense. However, make an intelligent, reasonable offer, that you yourself would accept if you were in my shoes, and I will be more than happy to negotiate.
3. Yes, I can be a bit of a jerk...but to borrow a phrase from Winston Churchill:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winston Churchill
"Yes, I'm a jerk, but you're a retard; if I wanted to, I could choose to be nice."
(If you at least chuckled, my hat's off to ya...if you were offended, good.)

4. Full disclosure of the condition of your cards is the rule, not the exception. I will assume your cards to be MINT unless you state otherwise. All my cards listed here are mint condition, unless denoted otherwise with a "nm" (Refer to DJ's Card Grading Guide below for details on how I grade cards.)
5. I'm interested only in trading for UDE US/Canada versions e.g. AST-037, DR2-EN149, etc. I do NOT want any European "E," Japanese or fake cards.
6. Send your cards ONE penny-sleeve per holo in toploaders with the ENDS TAPED SHUT! I am also not responsible for your lost mail. Use a bubble mailer & a USPS DC# with trades valued at $25+
7. Please post your questions & offers HERE. PM me only to finalize a trade. Once addresses are exchanged, the deal is binding & final.
8. I will not respond to pm’s. Pm’s are for final offer ONLY! You must post on my thread.
8. Posting on my list means you have read and will comply with all my rules.

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H2O’s yGo cArD gRaDiN' gUiDe ©
by DJ Shalifoe

Okay, to grade your cards correctly you’ll need to inspect the back (reverse) side as well as the front (face) side. I harp on this point because the reverse side flaws are the most often overlooked during grading so that a card you think is “mint” may actually not be!

To get a good idea, try putting the card along side another card fresh from a booster pack and compare both sides against it!

A card’s reverse side edges/corners take the most abuse – especially if worn-out or metallized sleeves are used. Most common are frayed/softened corners & edges, scratches, loss of gloss, and then creases & even delamination in the more extreme cases.

Important: I've avoided using “Near Mint (NM)” as a grading category, as it is too easily confused with “non-mint (nm).” Those of you who prefer to categorize your cards as either strictly “mint,” or “non-mint,” will have no problems adapting to my system below. For those of you who like to express your cards condition as a percentage (%) of mint, simply move the decimal one place and attach a “%”

GEM MINT/MINT Plus [GEM/MT+ (9.6 - 10)] Flawless. Looks brand new and is unplayed. If it has any defects, they are not visible to the unaided eye. If you think your card is in this condition, look at it again. Some defects are easily overlooked. Only the most very subtle printing defects are allowed. The card must be flat with no surface wear whatsoever. The card must be bright with super high reflectivity and no fading. Corners are cut square and sharp.

A card in this condition is generally sought after and reserved for collection purposes only. Cards in this grade are generally valued by as much as 125-200% more than those in the standard Mint grade. However, never buy or trade sight-unseen for a card graded Mint Plus unless it has been professionally certified.

And beware of traders here who claim their cards are "100% mint!" They're either grossly exaggerating, lying, or ignorant!

MINT [MT (9.0 – 9.5)] The consummate “Unplayed/Like New” card. This is actually the easiest grade to see firsthand. As I mentioned earlier, simply open a booster pack, pull out the cards, and viola'! All things being equal, those freshly pulled cards are going to be mint. It's really not any more difficult than that. To grade the rest of your cards in your collection, simply do a side-by-side comparison, front & especially the back. Again, really simple.

Also, MINT condition cards do not have to be flawless. They can have some minor defect, such a subtle printing defect, maybe some fraction of a millimeter chipped or flaked off a single reverse corner or edge (as long as it's not as the result of play), stamping imprints ala Ultimate rares, light scratches, etc. As described in the "MINT Plus" section above, a mint card is flat with no playwear, corners/edges are cut square and sharp, plus possesses high reflectivity & gloss. The more minor defects, the lower on the mint scale it goes...

The rule to remember is that the card must be free from signs of playwear. If the card has been decked, it must not show it! Reverse-side playwear is very easy to spot when compared to a card that's fresh from a booster pack, so remember to closely inspect the back of your card(s)!

Double-sleeving when possible is a very good way to keep your decked cards looking mint. Unfortunately, premier events like Regionals and Shonen Jump prohibit double-sleeving, so keep that in mind.

VERY FINE [VF (8.0 – 8.5), VF+ (8.6 - 8.9)] Here's were it starts to get tricky. This condition, and under, enters the realm of played, or non-mint. At first glance the front of the card has great eye appeal and appears to be mint. However, the reverse side gives it away.

The usual culprits are playwear on one or two edges/corners and/or loss of some of the gloss from the back of the card, heavy scratches, etc. No softening of the corners is permitted in this grade. You should all be very familiar with cards in this category. Many traders overgrade their cards that fall into this category because the face looks mint.

Remember, if there are any obvious signs of play on the back then the card is NOT mint!

The more signs of play you find the lower on the VF/FN (Played/Non-mint) scale it goes.

Note: A card in this grade loses at least a fifth of its value compared to its Mint counterpart.

FINE [FN: 7.0 – 7.5, FN+: 7.5 – 7.9] The consummate “played” card. A Fine card does appear to have been played at first glance but it's been handled with some care. This one allows for a few defects. Maybe some of the above (VF) along with a small fold or crease in one corner, and slightly more wear on one or two edges. The front has some slight surface wear but still has its original gloss; the back has lost most of its gloss, however. Overall there is nothing major wrong with it; looks great in a sleeve and is quite playable but it’s worth about half as much as a Mint grade version.

VERY GOOD [VG: 6.0 – 6.5, VG+: 6.6 – 6.9] VG could have one major defect like a width-wise crease as long as it would’ve made at least MT-/VF+ without it. Or it has all the characteristics of a Fine card with additional wear or softening on two or more edges/corners. But it cannot have both a major defect and Fine characteristics.

GOOD [GD: 5.0 – 5.5, GD+: 5.6 – 5.9] An extension of VG, just with more defects. This is really a misnomer; a Good card is not really a "good" card. There is almost no gloss, front or back. Cards in this grade are almost always creased, corners softened, reverse wear on all edges, etc; but it’s completely readable. This grade can have a lot of accumulation of defects but still has its basic overall playability.

FAIR [FR: 4.0 – 4.5, FN+: 4.6 – 4.9] A card in this grade has one foot in the trash can. In this condition it’s worn, messy, ragged and unattractive. However, by some miracle, the text, title and holofoil/artwork are discernable enough to actually play it. Desperation.

POOR [PR: > 4.0] This is pretty self-explanatory. It has several major defects to the point that there is no longer any playability value. A card in this condtion looks like it was passed through the digestive system of a very large animal, retrieved from the pile, ran through the wash a few times, tumbled dry, and is still waiting to be ironed. Throw it away.

H2O’s Wants

Horus LV 6 - minor
CRV Cyber Dragon – major
Cyber Laser Dragon - major
Cyber Pheonix x3 – MAJOR!
Protocyber dragon (ult) - major
Cyber Barrier - minor
Ultimate Cyber Dragon - major
Cyber Twin Dragon – major

H2O’s Haves

Green - Medium Difficulty
Yellow - Hard Difficulty
Red - Hardest Difficulty

Rares:

3x Chainsaw Insect
King Tiger Wanghu -
Mad Sword Beast
Nobleman of Extermination
Great Moth
Coffin Seller
Fusilier Dragon
Red Moon Baby
Forced Ceasefire
Malfunction
Contract with the Abyss
Jam Breeding Machine
Newdoria
Dark Jeroid
Dark Catapulter
Nobleman of Extermination
Monster Recovery
Spirit Reaper
5x Nimble Momonga
2x Berserk Gorilla
Helping Robo for Combat
Shadoslayer
2x Treeborn Frog -


Holos:

Scapegoat
Soul Exchange
Dark Master – Zork
Harpie Lady Sisters
JMP Blue-Eyes Ultimate Dragon
Book of Life
Skull Dice
The Masked Beast
Red Eyes B. Dragon
Chaos Command Magician
Gemini Elf
3x Tribe Infecting Virus
Shadow Spell
2x Demise, King of Armageddon -
2x Dark Ruler Ha Des
Abyss Soldier
The Legendary Fisherman
Limiter Removal
Polymerization
Revival Jam
Behemoth the King of all animals
Total Defense Shogun
The Creator
Barrel Dragon
2x Blowback Dragon -
Thestalos the Firestorm Monarch -
2x Mobius the Frost Monarch
The Last Warrior from Another Planet
Ring of Destruction
Relinquished
The Fiend Megacyber
Damage Condenser
Helpoemer
Invader of Darkness
The End of Anubis
Twinheaded Beast
Theinin the Great Sphinx
Legacy Hunter
Prenumbral Soldier Lady
Yamata Dragon
Red-Eyes Darkness Dragon
Airknight Parsath
Vampire Genesis
Granmarg The Rock Monarch
Needle Burrower
Machine King
Emes the Infinity
Burst Return
Amazoness Swords Woman x2
Axe of Despair
Black Illusion Ritual
Dark Mirror Force
Don Zaloog 1st edition
Horus LV8 x2 (1 SOI, 1 LE)
Mirror Force MRD

Cyber Twin Dragon (very fine-mint) for Dark Ruler Ha Des?

deal pm me your addy

anybody???????????????????????????/

I Really Need Cyber Phoenixssssssssssssssss!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

is our deal still on?

i really dont remember the trade because you didnt seem very interested and havent been on top of responding to my pm's fast.....what is the trade again?

do u still need the xyz pieces or the armed lv 7

yes i really need all your x,y,z pieces....what u want for em??

anyone?????????????????????????

You send out my cards yet?

i pmed you...................

Need CYBER PHOENIX'S NOWWWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!!!!!!!!

anybody?????????????????????????

nobody?????????????????????????