Quote

1. I'm mainly just looking for my wants, so please do NOT post "CML." Not trying to be a jerk, but either you have what I'm looking for or you don't. Checking your list won't change that. (My fellow LHT members may post CML however :cool:) 2. Make a decent, intelligent, opening offer based on my wants and I will check your list to see what else I can use. This is the only instance where I will check lists. 3. Ref rule is law. And do not enter into a trade unless you fully intend to honor it. 4. Full disclosure of the condition of your cards is the rule, not the exception. I will assume your cards are MINT unless you expicitly state otherwise! I will sometimes trade for nonmint cards, but you MUST let me know precisely how nonmint they are (according to MY scale below) when you offer. 5. If I receive your cards and they're not in mint condition, you will be held responsible for compensating me for it, or providing me the necessary funds to securely ship your cards back to you if we're unable to renegotiate. 6. Refer to my card grading essay below for details on how I grade cards. My system of grading is the only one that counts here; it's there for both your protection and mine. Read my grading scale below after you're done reading my rules so that we're both on the same page. 7. Please be realistic and don't expect to get something for nothing. You need to have the good stuff to get the good stuff, there's no way around it. 8. I'm interested only in trading for UDE US/Canada versions e.g. AST-037, DR2-EN149, etc. I do NOT want any European "E," Japanese, German, Spanish, Japanese, fake cards, or Bandai cards. 9. Send your cards using new condition penny-sleeves, one per holo, inside toploaders with the ends taped shut. I am also not responsible for your lost mail. Use a bubble mailer & a USPS DC# with trades valued at $40+ 10. Once addresses are exchanged, the deal is binding & final. You do NOT get to back out of the deal for any reason short of literally getting mugged for your YGO binder. 11. I will be online here very sporadically at times, so please wait patiently for my reply. And do not post here unless you fully intend to follow-up! 12. Posting here means that you have read and agree comply with all my rules above, as well as any & all applicable forum rules. Ignoring my rules means I will ignore you. Again, not to be a jerk, but I'm not asking too much here. Thanks for reading! :cool:

==================================================
DJ's NEW & Notable Haves
Destiny Draw
DMoC 1/e
Grandmaster (Promo x 3/SCR x 2)
Infernal Dragon x 2
Meltiel Sage x 2
Nova Summoner x 3
Night Assailant CP
Pyramid Turtle CP
Sacred Beast playmat
+ TONS MORE - UPDATED 4/28/07
==================================================

DJ's YugiMonz wAnTs

==================================================

==================================================
DJ’s cArD gRaDiN' gUiDe ©

Quote

GEM MINT/MINT Plus [GEM/MT+ (9.6 - 10)] Flawless. Looks brand new and is unplayed. If it has any defects, they are not visible to the unaided eye. If you think your card is in this condition, look at it again. Some defects are easily overlooked. Only the most very subtle printing defects are allowed. The card must be flat with no surface wear whatsoever. The card must be bright with super high reflectivity and no fading. Corners are cut square and sharp. A card in this condition is generally sought after and reserved for collection purposes only. Cards in this grade are generally valued by as much as 125-200% more than those in the standard Mint grade. However, never buy or trade sight-unseen for a card graded Mint Plus unless it has been professionally certified. And beware of traders here who claim their cards are "100% mint!" They're either grossly exaggerating, lying, or ignorant! MINT [MT (9.0 – 9.5)] The consummate “Unplayed/Like New” card. This is actually the easiest grade to see firsthand. Simply open a booster pack, pull out the cards, and viola'! All things being equal, those freshly pulled cards are going to be mint. It's really not any more difficult than that. To grade the rest of your cards in your collection, simply do a side-by-side comparison, front & especially the back. Again, really simple. Also, MINT condition cards do not have to be flawless. They can have some minor defect, such a subtle printing defect, maybe some fraction of a millimeter chipped or flaked off a single reverse corner or edge (as long as it's not as the result of play), stamping imprints ala Ultimate rares, light scratches, etc. As described in the "MINT Plus" section above, a mint card is flat with no playwear, corners/edges are cut square and sharp, plus possesses high reflectivity & gloss. The more minor defects, the lower on the mint scale it goes... The rule to remember is that the card must be free from signs of playwear. If the card has been decked, it must not show it! Reverse-side playwear is very easy to spot when compared to a card that's fresh from a booster pack, so remember to closely inspect the back of your card(s)! Double-sleeving when possible is a very good way to keep your decked cards looking mint. Unfortunately, premier events like Regionals and Shonen Jump prohibit double-sleeving, so keep that in mind. VERY FINE [VF (8.0 – 8.5), VF+ (8.6 - 8.9)] Here's were it starts to get tricky. This condition, and under, enters the realm of played, or non-mint. At first glance the front of the card has great eye appeal and appears to be mint. However, the reverse side gives it away. The usual culprits are playwear on one or two edges/corners and/or loss of some of the gloss from the back of the card, heavy scratches, etc. No softening of the corners is permitted in this grade. You should all be very familiar with cards in this category. Many traders overgrade their cards that fall into this category because the face looks mint. Remember, if there are any obvious signs of play on the back then the card is NOT mint! The more signs of play you find the lower on the VF/FN (Played/Non-mint) scale it goes. Note: A card in this grade loses at least a fifth of its value compared to its Mint counterpart. FINE [FN: 7.0 – 7.5, FN+: 7.5 – 7.9] The consummate “played” card. A Fine card does appear to have been played at first glance but it's been handled with some care. This one allows for a few defects. Maybe some of the above (VF) along with a small fold or crease in one corner, and slightly more wear on one or two edges. The front has some slight surface wear but still has its original gloss; the back has lost most of its gloss, however. Overall there is nothing major wrong with it; looks great in a sleeve and is quite playable but it’s worth about half as much as a Mint grade version. VERY GOOD [VG: 6.0 – 6.5, VG+: 6.6 – 6.9] VG could have one major defect like a width-wise crease as long as it would’ve made at least MT-/VF+ without it. Or it has all the characteristics of a Fine card with additional wear or softening on two or more edges/corners. But it cannot have both a major defect and Fine characteristics. GOOD [GD: 5.0 – 5.5, GD+: 5.6 – 5.9] An extension of VG, just with more defects. This is really a misnomer; a Good card is not really a "good" card. There is almost no gloss, front or back. Cards in this grade are almost always creased, corners softened, reverse wear on all edges, etc; but it’s completely readable. This grade can have a lot of accumulation of defects but still has its basic overall playability. FAIR [FR: 4.0 – 4.5, FN+: 4.6 – 4.9] A card in this grade has one foot in the trash can. In this condition it’s worn, messy, ragged and unattractive. However, by some miracle, the text, title and holofoil/artwork are discernable enough to actually play it. Desperation. POOR [PR: > 4.0] This is pretty self-explanatory. It has several major defects to the point that there is no longer any playability value. A card in this condtion looks like it was passed through the digestive system of a very large animal, retrieved from the pile, ran through the wash a few times, tumbled dry, and is still waiting to be ironed. Throw it away.

==================================================



==================================================
DJ's YugiMonz tRaDe bInDeR