I mean, after all, it was in Scrye and all! :D

a compilation by J.R.R. CMAshby


Here is a compilation of trading tips that either I have suggested earlier or have been contributed to the site by other members of MKRealms. If I do not specifically thank you and indicate what part was your contribution, I offer my apologies, but I do what I can. J
Specific thanks go to: Battletech58, Quark, Janx, daddyj, isabee, & dando2


This is broken down into stages which are indicated by the bold type:

Here we go:

BEFORE TRADING AT ALL

this entire "bucket" section is a previous post of Janx's

I'm not a big time trader, but I've done enough to develop a system that works for me. I've seen others complain about difficulty with trading.

Here are some ideas to try, to help make trading easier:

1. Keep an inventory. Use a spreadsheet or a program, like the one here on MKrealms.com. Bring the printout with you all the time, so you know what you have and what you need.

2. Keep a Spares Bucket. Put any extra figures in the spares bucket. DO NOT mix figures you're willing to trade with figures you want to keep. This makes it easier for the other person to find figs you are willing to trade out. You will never have to make the gut-wrenching decision to part with a figure from this bucket, because you already decided you did not need it.

3. Make some rules for yourself on what goes in the Spares bucket.

For Rebellion, I had a rule of that when I had more than 3 of a given figure's color, it was a spare. I also put any duplicate uniques in the spares bucket. This resulted in a having a LOT of rebellion figs. Some figures, you do want three of (like 3 Red Amotep GUnners). Other figures, 1 is enough (1 yellow leech medic). With Lancers, I found very little desire for more than 2 of anything. So, my rule there is more than 2 figs goes in the bucket. It has worked out very well, I have a lower spares inventory of Lancers, and I don't have lots of useless figures.

You can apply these or similar rules on what you'll keep versus what you'll put in the bucket. For some, it may be whole factions they'll put in the bucket. Using this system will keep your collection manageable.

4. Understand the economics of the Spares bucket. Carry the spares bucket with you when you go to places you might be able to trade. Make sure you bring the inventory records, and that you document any changes from trading. The economics of the bucket is this. They are spare figures. Their value to you is less than the same figures in your collection. If you lose the bucket, it is better than having brought everything and losing it all. A problem that some people have, when they don't keep a spares bucket, is that they'll show you a figure, and then be reluctant to trade it, because they've only got one or two. That does not raise the value of the figure. It only raises their perceived value of the figure. By having a spares bucket, you avoid that conflict.

5. Establish a method for determining fair market value. Before you start the trade, tell the trader what your system is. Discuss and come to agreement on what system the two of you will use is. It may be a combined version of both, or you may agree to his. It depends on who has a lesser need, that person will be able to exert more control. Some suggested systems is to use a Price Guide (like Scrye). Another system, is to use the rarity level of the figure, and try to match rarities. No system will result in a perfect trade, you will find both parties suggesting extra odd figures to even the trade out. I do not recommend trading even for points of figures, as you will find that your highly valuable low point figures may be traded out for high point commons. The fact that you have lots of a rare figure does not automatically diminish its value if the other player wants it. I think using a price guide is a fair method, as it reflects overall market value of any given figure. You will find that you can deviate from price guides when the local market has shortages or surpluses. In some areas, Red Gunners are very rare, in others, they are very common. You can get more or less depending on whether the trader can find another source.

6. Look at your inventory sheet, and pull out figures from his spares that you want. Let him do the same. Once you have both found the figures you want, try to match up using your valuation system the figures to a fair trade. By doing all the above steps, you reduce the hassle at this phase. If you can't come to an agreement on all figures, try to complete the deal on some of the figures. IF no deal can be made, don't force it, simply agree that you can't come to an agreement, and thank him for his time.

That pretty much concludes my advice. It's pretty basic, but some people seem to be new to trading, or have forgotten how to manage their collections.

STARTING THE TRADE PROCESS

1) Be pleasant and present fair trades up front (offering a *ranger for someone’s heirophant is not only completely useless, it often offends the other trader and ruins any chance you may have had).

2) NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING!
If you don’t want a broken figure or a figure with a sticker on its base, ask!! Don’t assume the figure is in mint condition, make sure that it is, and that you have the condition described in an email. Also, be courteous enough to do the same with the other trader. If it has stickers, mention it. Some people don’t care about imperfections of the figures and others would consider it bad trading practices, hold a grudge, and probably post negative comments about your trading practices.

3) If an offer seems too good to be true, it probably is. I cannot stress this enough. Especially if one of the conditions is that you have to send first. I saw a post here that illustrates my point: "If you send first, I'll throw in a Anunub" where the Anunub was much larger than the entire rest of the trade.

4) The second point is that a ripper will always have exactly what you need. Need a tough Demi to go with the Stormy you're trading for, magically there and available for trade. This one is secondary and should only be considered evidence if there are a number of other "red lights".

5) If it is a large trade and the person seems honest, but you are still nervous about trusting someone, try to find someone to third party the trade. There are some moderators or very high-profile traders might be willing to do it for you. Don't expect them to do it for free, though. It is a somewhat expensive and time consuming process when you consider what it takes to do one trade. It's still cheap compared to replacing a Black Thorn or Anunub.

6) Here's probably the most important one, but most-often overlooked. If your instincts tell you "don't do it" then by all means, don't. Sometimes your sub-conscious mind picks up on things that you might not consciously be aware of as being fishy, but are none-the-less . I know this sounds like superstitious mumbo-jumbo, but it's true.

7) If you are questioning a trader's honesty, bounce it off somebody else, a friend, a moderator or a friendly trader with a lot of successful trades. Have them look at the evidence and make a judgment. I know of another trading board that you have to make your first trades under the watchful eye of a more experienced trader. This is a good idea for a number of reasons and this is a major one.

8) Always be polite and friendly even if you suspect that they have ulterior motives. I see all these posts that say, "Rippers, go away" and "I'll beat you up if you try to rip me", plus emails that make similar threats. Really, does anyone think that this stops rippers? It makes real rippers laugh and insults us honest traders. You will never convince a ripper to become honest, but you can convince an honest person to "not receive your uninsured cards in the mail".

9) This brings me to another important point. Rippers will always try to give you the hurry up. This is a common tactic for every kind of rip-off from magic cards to lightning rods to used cars. Honest people need figs in a hurry for tournaments and such too, but a ripper will always try to get you to act before you have time to think about it and wise up.

10) I always also try to get a “verification” letter to finalize things, one with our names (both real and user names) and address, along with a copy of the trade and any special conditions we have (unbroken and unpainted) and have the other trader email me back accepting it.

11) ALWAYS check a persons references. Do not settle for just a list of emails this person traded with. Email those email addresses and check the trader out.

12) Run an address check through the white pages, especially if the trade is of a higher value. It never hurts to get the others phone number either, if the trade is for expensive figs. You should be able to verify it through a reverse phone directory.

13) “Quarks Letter”
When you email the other person, say:
“Hi Quark (or if you know his real first name use that)
(your trade email inserted here)
Thanks
(your first name)
Being polite is going to land you a trade with me and most others than those emails that just say “I got this fig and I want this” Actually I normally turn down people who email me trade offers that way and accept those that are polite even if the trade is not as good as the one that was impolite.

14) “Always reply to an email even if you don’t want to do the trade. It takes just a minute to type a no thank you email and will keep people from getting bitter with your for leaving them hanging. If someone never replies to a trade email I send I will never trade with the person. I keep a list of aliases of those who don’t reply” – Quark

TRADE IS AGREED UPON – NOW WHAT?

1) Save any and all emails relating to the trade.

You will want to keep both sides of the email negotiations, the ones you receive and the ones you send. The easiest way to do this is make a “trade” folder to keep these messages in, and they won’t accidentally get deleted. In case something happens, you will have evidence of the trade to back you up and a name and address to help track this person down. I’m not saying that an email will hold up in court but it can’t hurt.

2) Package your figures properly

It doesn’t require a lot of time or effort to properly package and ship figures. Just as you want your figures packaged well and arrive in undamaged condition, do the same for the other trader. It may cost a bit more, but I usually buy a $.60 card box, put the figures in a plastic sleeve from a booster, put another one of those sleeves on top, put in a letter detailing the trade with my name and address, tape it up and ship it off. I’ve never had a complaint about my shipping and I don’t spend any money, I just recycle the booster packing. You may want to get some styro peanuts and/or individually wrap a figure in bubble wrap if it’s a very important figure, but I send uniques all the time, and have yet to have one break on me.

3) Shipping

I don’t understand why people do not do this. Spend $.40 and get delivery confirmation AND send priority mail. This proves you shipped the figures and that they received it at their door. Even if it’s someone I trust, I still do it so if something does happen somewhere along the way, I can track it and go back and blame the Post Office. As a side note, I know a lot of traders use priority mail anyways, but if I have people send first for whatever reason, I, as a general rule ship their figures (when I get mine) to them via priority mail, so they don’t have to wait any longer than they already have.

4) If you promise to trade something to someone…how about take care of it and make sure nothing happens to it. But there are always people making excuses for it.

5) DO NOT BACK OUT ON A TRADE!!!! If you commit to a trade, then finish it. There’s almost nothing worse than that. No offense to the younger members, but I hear it from people under the age of 15 more than anywhere else. I can’t count the # of times people have backed out on trades and told me “my mom says I can’t” Well guess what, bucko? You need to wait until you’re an adult before you start trading then. It’s a waste of everyone’s time, money, and figures.

6) Double check what you send people. It’s incredibly disappointing to open your package and realize you’re one deepspawn*** short of the agreed upon deal. You may not be trying to rip anyone, but in actuality you are, and a lot of the “good” traders wouldn’t go through the trouble of asking for it, but it will always be there in the back of their mind. A little peek into the box before you seal it is all it takes.

7) Another good thing to do is to ship out your packages immediately! 48 hours is normally the longest amount of time it should take someone to get something in the mail. Everyone has a real life, but if it takes more than 2 days to mail a package, you need to let the other person know, UP FRONT, not after the deal has been set or two days later.

8) For shipping Internationally, you will be required to fill out a green customs form. It is important to know how these forms work and how to fill them out in order to help out your trade partner the most. First, always check the box marked “gift” when trading. I’m not sure how this legally works if you are receiving cash for the figs, but when trading always mark the gift box. If the merchandise box is checked the person who picks up the package will pay duties/taxes to pick it up. Secondly, make sure the form is at least filled in. The post office should check before letting you send but if there are no boxes checked they have to hold the package, open it, check the contents, possibly adjust the value and then charge maximum duty/tax and the whole deal takes longer.

AFTER YOU HAVE SENT

1) Stay in touch! Lack of communication is one of the main reasons misunderstandings happen and eliminate the possibility for a repeat trade. Noone likes to deal with someone and once they ship, not here back from that individual, especially if they sent first. Don’t hesitate to email and if you are emailed be sure to reply to it as soon as possible. Make sure you let the other person know as soon as you send out their figures and you receive theirs.

2) Patience is a virtue!! This is the subject I myself have the most difficulty with. Sometimes it takes a while to get to you, and sometimes people have better things to do than to jump up and drive to the post office the day they receive your figs. That’s just reality. You just have to be patient, give it a week or two for trades to arrive (US to US trades) before you start posting bad trader notices.

3) Ripping someone off is mail fraud. This is another reason to save your email messages. Any documented deal in which you agreed to send a certain item in exchange for another by mail, is under the jurisdiction of laws pertaining to mail fraud. If you don’t believe me, read Title 18, Section 1341 of the US Code. Those found guilty of mail fraud can be fined and sent to jail for up to 5 years. Contact your local postmaster if you seriously believe you’ve been ripped off, and he or she will tell you what you can do.

4) If the worst happens, then you do have options to getting your figures back. First, email the person and let them know that you will be filing mail fraud charges if you don't receive the figures, but remember rule #7. If they don't send back or respond, go to the following links and file a complaint with both.

https://www.ifccfbi.gov
http://www.usps.com
http://www.ftc.com

on the usps website, follow the links to the postal inspectors site. They have the authority to prosecute on a federal level, as well as the FTC. The ifcc is run by the FBI, but generally works with the Attorney General's office in the offender's state.

FINALLY

Finally, most people are honest.
Although there are some rippers out there, online trading wouldn't exist if most people weren't honest. If you just use some common sense and try to follow these guidelines, you should have many successful trades.

Speaking of Successful Trades, don’t ask someone to put a referal up for you if you’re not willing to do the same for them. If you complete a trade with someone successfully, be a sport and put a ref up there for them.